Question: How do you know when an asphalt shingle roof needs replacement? Are there clues to look for before telltale water stains appear on our plaster ceilings?
Answer: Here's
what to look for: numerous shingles that are lifting up, cracked or missing, with curled edges, or with smooth dark areas, which indicate that the protective granules have worn off.
Also, go into the attic on a sunny day and, with the lights off, check the underside of the chimney and the stack vent. If you see little pinhole spots of light, the flashing is shot—another
indication that the roofing might not be in good shape.
Question: Everything being equal (ventilation, shingle type, climate, etc.), which roof will last longer: one with a steep pitch or one with a shallow pitch? Seems to me a steep hillside erodes more quickly than a low slope, so I'd think that roof shingles would wear out more quickly on a steeply sloped roof.
Answer: Actually, factors other than pitch have a greater effect on shingle durability. The side facing your worst weather typically fares worse than the leeward side. Likewise, a roof system that isn't vented properly and allows heat to build up beneath the roofing has a shorter life than one that is vented.
Question: We have a major leakage problem and are getting a new roof. What is the best underlayment to protect the valleys in my roof from leaking: ice and shield guard, metal flashing, or double rolled shingles?
Answer: First, your roofers should lay down an ice and water shield over the entire roof. Made of polyethylene and rubberized asphalt, this membrane prevents water that has slipped under shingles from penetrating to ceilings below. The valleys should then be covered with metal flashing or weaving. I would also recommend two layers of the ice and water shield on the lower section of the roof (along the eaves), around chimneys and beside the dormers.
Question: My friend has a new 9,000-square-foot home and has had problems with the roof leaking. The roofing man and two painting guys have told her that the caulk on her roof was the source of the problem. They told her that she should have it checked every six months for cracking and possible replacement because the caulk doesn't last long. I have never heard of this before and was wondering if they are pulling her leg or if this is a real problem?
Answer: I've got to tell you, it sounds like they're pulling your leg. You shouldn't need any caulking on a roof with proper flashing. You need a second opinion.
Question: A friend recently mentioned in passing he thought some of the "flashing" on my roof looked as if it were in rough shape. Can you explain exactly what roof flashing is?
Answer: Flashing is just material—usually aluminum or galvanized steel—that's used over joints in roof and wall construction to prevent water seeping in and causing damage.
Depending on the style of your house's roof, you probably have it in the valleys, around the chimney and pipes, and around any dormer windows or skylights.
Most damage shows up either in flashing that's deteriorating due to weathering and oxidizing, or in flashing that has come loose.|I can't say for sure without seeing your roof,
but most flashing problems can be patched or repaired fairly easily. Professional roofers typically cut and shape their own flashing from sheet metal, but the most common
flashing pieces also come pre-formed and can be applied without much difficulty using caulking or roof cement.
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